The adventure of Tuna Fish

 

 

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Every year, around the month of March, the tunas commence an amazing journey that takes them from the cold waters of the North Atlantic all the way into the Mediterranean sea.

On their way, they all have to pass through Cadiz coastline and the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean, and this is where all the action happens. Cádiz, one of the most beautiful provinces in Spain, and part of the 8 provinces in Andalusia, has excellent beaches and lovely small coastal villages. Four of them are Barbate, Conil, Zahara de los Atunes, and Tarifa, and the Almadraba tuna fishing method is used here. This is an ancient technique with hundreds of years (Romans already used it, and it comes from the Phoenicians times). The word ¨Almadraba¨ has Arabic roots and means ¨place of killing¨. However, The Almadraba is not aggressive and is respectful of both the species and the environment.

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As the fish reach and pass the shores of these 4 villages, fishermen await on their boats by the bay with their huge nets, building a circle between all boats where tunas are selected, caught, killed and pulled in to the boats. Men also jump into the nets and help catching tunas that can be up to 600kg. Only the strongest tunas are caught, whereas the others are returned to continue the journey and help to carry on the future generation.

Watching how the fishermen catch the tuna is quite impressive, and just for a selected few, due to restrictions. The spectacle is impressive, though.

The month of May is considered the best for this, since the tunas have enough fat. And a good amount of all the fishing goes to the demanded and selective Japanese market.

Most towns hold annual tuna festivals throughout May and June, and they´re all worth visiting. Bars and restaurants prepare gourmet delicacies around tuna fish, and the best chefs of the area offer selective red tuna options in all their menus.

It is also quite interesting to learn about the ¨Ronqueo¨, the method through which the Almadraba tuna is skinned and filleted by hand, in a way that nothing is wasted. Many restaurants have experts coming to do live ¨ronqueos¨ during this season. The word ronqueo comes from ¨roncar¨, which means ¨to snore¨ in Spanish. The reason is easy: when experts are cutting the tuna, they use special knives that make a peculiar sound when touching the spine and bones of the fish with the knife as they cut it, and it resembles the sound of ¨snoring¨.

For those wanting to learn more or experience the season of the tuna fish, we can help with private access to fishing boats to see the catching live (very restricted), as well as bespoke itineraries to the finest bars and restaurants along the coast to enjoy the best recipes. Or meet and greet with local chefs and experts, see a ronqueo, or do the local ¨ruta del atún¨ (gourmet tuna routes) with a foodie expert, over the different villages celebrating it in May and June.

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Little Travel Stories: Granada, Alhambra and so much more

 

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The impressive and world-known Alhambra palace, the most visited monument in Spain,  is the reference point when it comes to talk or write about Granada in Andalusia. It dominates all aspects of the city, and indeed it is a must-do for all visitors (booking in advance is essential).

But Granada has so much more. A mid-sized city, easy to walk, unless you prefer to explore the beautiful Albaicín quarter, full of slopes, alleys and quiet charming streets, where tourists seek the best views over the Alhambra. These can be found at the popular Mirador de San Nicolás lookout point, where floods of people gather around sunset to enjoy the views. But for a complete city view, here´s a tip: get a taxi and ask to drive you to Ermita San Miguel, an old church on top of a hill, just 10min drive from downtown. The best unobstructed views over Granada and Alhambra, with the sun setting right behind.

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We spent a weekend in the city and chose a lovely small boutique hotel, Casa 1800. They also have a sister hotel in Sevilla. This one in Granada, with less than 30 rooms, is a small piece of tranquility in the heart of downtown. Expect charming rooms and attentive service. Some of the rooms overlook the Alhambra. As an added value, the hotel offers a complimentary coffee and pastry service every afternoon to all guests at the lovely interior patio, which is the center of the property. We stayed at Suite 1800, their signature room, a huge and spacious Suite with jacuzzi bath, separate living-room and big balconies with views over Alhambra palace.

From the hotel, it is easy to explore the city. The popular Carrera Del Darro Street by the small Darro river is just in front of the hotel, and it is the starting point from where to walk the Albaicín neighbourhood. Tea shops, small cafes and restaurants are easy to find all over.  I like Carmen De Aben Humeya, a little cozy restaurant with splendid views, outdoor terrace and great local cuisine.

The Realejo district is becoming a fashionable area lately. Also a few minutes walk from the hotel, it has become a kind of soho area, full of stylish restaurants, coffee-shops, jazz and music clubs, galleries… try Picoteca 3Maneras, a modern tapas bar and restaurant with surprising local dishes combined with a Northern touch as a reminder of the origins of the owner. Just a few steps from there, Papaupa is also surprising: a retro decor, cozy atmosphere and fusion dishes. They also open for afternoon coffee and late night drinks.

Culture: spend some time visiting the cathedral and nearby streets. The very interesting Royal Chapel is where the Catholic Kings are buried, and you can also see not only the grave but some of the original clothes and jewels they used during their reign. And right next to the chapel, narrow streets where artisans used to work and sell their products are now full of shops with handcraft, but the charm of those times still remain.

Fine dining: Arriaga Restaurant is the place to go. The setting is spectacular: the highest floor of the Memoria de Andalucia Museum, at 60 meters high, and with glass on both sides of the restaurant walls so you can enjoy amazing city views in all directions. However, the food will call most of the attention: a combination of local and basque cuisine, excellent product, great wines (with some surprising ones from Granada), and seamless service. Daniel the maitre is a great host, while owner Álvaro Arriaga, a basque chef who settled years ago in Granada, is the soul of the place. Their tasting menus are really interesting. Booking in advance is essential.

Daytrip: Sierra Nevada, the only place to ski in Southern Spain, is 1h drive from the city. The amazing white-washed mountains and snow landscapes are totally worth it. Between December and March, ski season takes place and it is a popular weekend destination. But you can also go during summer time, less crowded and same as spectacular nature. The finest resort is El Lodge, a small luxury boutique hotel right next to ski slopes, with comfortable rooms and chic atmosphere. Only complaint would be their Sun Deck outdoor restaurant, which still lacks efficient service to match a 5 star, but hopefully should improve.

Distances: Granada is 2h approx drive from Sevilla, 1,30h from Málaga and  about 2h from Córdoba. Its airport connects with Barcelona, Madrid and other international destinations.

For private tailormade itineraries to Granada, insider tips or additional activities or requests concerning the city of Alhambra palace, please feel free to contact directly.

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BLANCONCIERGE is a privately owned Luxury Travel & Concierge agency based in Seville, Spain, and managed by founder Eduardo Blanco.